05 Sep The Fascinating Evolution of London Fashion: From Royal Courts to Runways

With London Fashion Week just around the corner, there’s no better time to delve into the rich and eclectic history of fashion in London. This city, known for its unique blend of tradition and innovation, has been at the forefront of fashion for centuries. From the elaborate styles of the royal courts to the avant-garde trends seen on today’s runways, London has consistently shaped and reshaped what it means to be fashionable.

Let’s take a journey through the centuries to explore how London became a global fashion capital, filled with fun and surprising facts along the way.

The Birth of London Fashion: Early Influences

London’s fashion history can be traced back to the medieval period, long before the Tudors, when sumptuary laws were first introduced in England in the 14th century. These laws dictated what people could wear based on their social class, aiming to maintain social hierarchy by regulating clothing, food, and luxury items. For example, in 1363, a law was passed that restricted the wearing of certain luxurious fabrics like velvet, satin, and silk to the nobility.

However, it was during the Tudor period that fashion in London really began to flourish under the influence of the royal court. King Henry VIII was known for his opulent clothing, often made from the finest materials such as silk, fur, and gold. His extravagant wardrobe, which included over 2,000 pieces of clothing, was a symbol of his power and wealth.

Queen Elizabeth I, Henry’s daughter, further cemented London’s status as a fashion capital. Her reign saw the popularity of the ruff; a stiff, pleated collar that became synonymous with Elizabethan fashion. Elizabeth’s influence on fashion extended to cosmetics as well, with her pale complexion setting a trend for white, lead-based face paint among the aristocracy, despite its dangerous health risks.

The Georgian and Victorian Eras: Extravagance and Evolution

The Georgian era (1714-1830) marked a period of extravagant fashion in London, particularly among the upper classes. This was the age of the dandy, where men like Beau Brummell set the standard for stylish dressing. Brummell is often credited with popularising the modern men’s suit, characterised by clean lines and understated elegance, which became a stark contrast to the elaborate and colourful fashions of the past.

In the Victorian era (1837-1901), Queen Victoria herself became a fashion icon. One of her most lasting contributions to fashion was popularising the white wedding dress. Before her marriage to Prince Albert in 1840, brides typically wore their best dress, regardless of colour. However, Victoria’s choice of a white gown made such an impression that it soon became the standard for brides in Britain and beyond. The Victorian era also saw the rise of department stores, with London’s Harrods, founded in 1849, becoming a mecca for fashion-conscious shoppers.

The Swinging Sixties: London Takes the World Stage

By the 1960s, London had firmly established itself as a global fashion capital. The ‘Swinging Sixties’ was a decade of cultural revolution, and fashion was at the heart of it. Mary Quant, a British fashion designer, is often credited with popularising the mini-skirt, a garment that became a symbol of youthful rebellion and modernity. Her boutique, Bazaar, located on King’s Road in Chelsea, was a hub of innovation, attracting the likes of Twiggy, the famous model whose androgynous look and short haircut epitomised the era’s trendsetting style.

Interestingly, Quant named the mini-skirt after her favourite car, the Mini Cooper. This playful approach to fashion and design helped solidify London’s reputation as a city that wasn’t afraid to break the rules and challenge the status quo.

Punk and Beyond: London’s Fashion Rebels

The late 1970s and early 1980s brought another wave of fashion rebellion with the rise of punk. The punk movement, with its anti-establishment ethos, found a natural home in London. Vivienne Westwood, alongside Malcolm McLaren, was at the forefront of this movement. Their boutique, SEX, on the King’s Road, became the epicentre of punk fashion, with its iconic distressed clothing, safety pins, and provocative slogans.

The punk era highlighted London’s ongoing role as a city of fashion rebels—those who weren’t afraid to use fashion as a form of social and political expression. The legacy of punk continues to influence fashion designers today, with many drawing inspiration from its DIY aesthetic and subversive spirit.

Modern London Fashion: A Melting Pot of Creativity

Today, London remains a melting pot of fashion, where tradition meets innovation. From the classic tailoring of Savile Row to the cutting-edge designs showcased at London Fashion Week, the city continues to set global trends. London Fashion Week has become a crucial event on the international fashion calendar, showcasing the best of British and global talent.

Sustainability is a current trend that London designers are increasingly embracing. The city is now home to numerous brands that prioritise ethical fashion, with Stella McCartney leading the charge. Her commitment to animal-free and eco-friendly fashion has set a new standard in the industry. It’s not just about looking good anymore; it’s about feeling good about what you’re wearing and its impact on the planet.

A City of Style: London’s Enduring Fashion Legacy

From medieval sumptuary laws to punk rockers, London has always been a city that embraces diversity in fashion. It’s a place where rules are made to be broken, and where the past and future of fashion constantly intersect. As we celebrate another London Fashion Week, we’re reminded that this city’s style legacy is not just in its history but in its ability to continually reinvent itself. Here’s to the next chapter in London’s sartorial story!

Featured Image: Himiller, CC BY-SA 4.0  via Wikimedia Commons